Thursday, December 19, 2013

Mae Hong Son Holiday – Day 3: Mae Hong Son – Tham Lod Cave - Pai


Before leaving the city of Mae Hong Son on Day 3, it’s a good idea to stop by the local market. There’s a lot to see and buy here. You will find that many useful items, such as peelers and graters, are a lot more cheaper here than in your country. Also, you must not miss the morning view of the Wat Phrathat Doi Kong Mu from the city; it is gorgeous.



You will enjoy the pleasant drive, up and down the mountains, with their sharp curves and bends. It would be a good idea to stop at the hilltop of Pang Oung to visit another tribal market and enjoy the scenery of the Thai highlands. You will see a number of elderly ladies from the Lisu tribe playing their traditional instruments, such as winged mouthpiece and flute, and asking for a donation. You will also see a row of souvenir shops, where you can buy cute little passport and money holders, scarves and shawls woven by the tribal women. You can also buy their organic products, including fruit, vegetable and honey. It would be a good idea to support this tribe in whatever way you can. At Pang Oung, you will see many motorbikes parked; this route is a popular destination with motorcyclists, too.

Your next destination will be Tham Nam Lod, a massively impressive ancient limestone cave of geological, archaeological and ecological importance. You will be required to hire a lantern guide and use a traditional bamboo raft to enter the cave. Don’t forget to buy some fish food, as you have the opportunity to feed the fish from the raft. Some of the fish are quite big and weigh as heavy as 10 kg.   



Rafting will be short, but there is so much to see inside the cave. It would help to have your own head torch or flashlight, but in any case, the lantern guide will lead you through the walking trail. It’s possible that the he or she will not speak any English, so your tour guide will be your interpreter. You need to mind your head and steps. The cave is both deep and tall (and yet it is not the biggest one in Thailand) – there will be bridges to cross and ladders to climb. You will see various shapes and structures: just to mention a few, these resemble pancake, elephant, teeth, crocodile, waterfall, popcorn and a woman’s breast. On the higher level of the cavern, you will find a pre-historic painting of a deer arrow and sun. The writing on the wall tells you that this was probably drawn by a hunter 2-3,000 years ago.  



When you come out of the cave, you will be ready for lunch. There are many local restaurants just outside the Tham Nam Wildlife and Nature Centre entrance. You will find the food cheap and good and the attitude of the people, warm and hospitable.

Your final destination for the day will be the city of Pai, the Thai dream destination, with a beautiful river flowing through the city. If you have some time to spare and the weather is right, you might even consider swimming in the river. But when I was there, it was too cold.






You don’t want to miss the Pai walking street and night market. Nightlife is vibrant, with so much to eat, see, do, buy and enjoy. You might see a police officer singing; his cause is worth supporting, as he will be raising funds to help the suffering children in Pai. This will be a good place to buy souvenirs, such as postcards and tee-shirts, and to meet a variety of foreign tourists. Vendors are creative. In addition to Thai food stalls and restaurants, there are also touristy places to eat. So many options! Don’t forget to walk to the end of the street and cross the Pai River over a bamboo bridge for pedestrians. The night view ofPai is just as amazing from the other side of the river!


A piece of writing on the wall summarises Pai perfectly:



"For off-the-beaten track Thailand, the often overlooked northern town of Pai is the place to go. Set so high up in the mountains, you’ll be looking down through the clouds. Its slower pace of life, ambling streets and tranquil vistas are a world apart from the bustle of the rest of the country. There are hot springs and endless jungle scenery nearby, and the town itself is lovely to wander through. This is the place to have a Thai massage, head out for cocktail or opt for some slightly nice beds for the night." 



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